Flap Assembly

The flap assembly is another easy and rewarding part to put together.

Evan Brunye has a very detailed and helpful video on the assemble of the part

2.3. Sling TSi Wing - Flaps

Here is another highly detailed blog on the assembly of the flaps

Sara's Sling Build log - Flaps

Parts were prepped using my established procedures for cleaning and treating components prior to assembly.

This assembly also requires ribs to be dimpled as well as sections of the forward part of the skins.

If you didn't purchase the large table mounted DRDT-2 go with the tools below, they worked perfectly.

ATS Pro Rivet Squeezer w/1.5 yoke

ATS Pro 3" Yoke

Pop Dimpler 1/8" 

TIP

• Make sure you use the correct dimple die for the 4.0 x 12 counter sunk rivets.

• Make sure to pull the three rivets for parts #9 & #13 to part #14 as you will not have access to those holes once you start riveting part #10 the flap control bracket.

Here are few more pictures of the assembly verifying alignment prior to closeout.

Preloaded Cleco's and rivets to get all of the holes lined up and minor match drilling where absolutely needed.

TIP

• When you are ready to pull the rivets for the those in the picture below, you will find that the riveter won't fit. I used a specialty tool from ATS that has been invaluable for close quarters locations.

RV-12 CORNER RIVET PULLER 

I also prepped the rivet lines with red Scotch-Bright pads on all of the flap skins to help with paint adhesion. I used tape to make the lines pretty which was totally overkill, but having to look at these parts for many months prior to paint I was happy with the results.

TIP

• I found that setting a line of Cleco's along the leading edge of the skin helped to pull the skins tight to the ribs and improved alignment with rivet holes and reduced the need to match drill.

• The downside of match drilling is all of the burs created, necessitating a complete disassembly, cleaning, then reassembly which makes things tedious but a important step in the process.

• I had to use the pop-rivet style dimpler on some of the most inner holes where the yoke could not reach.Pop Dimpler 1/8" 

Here is a closeup of the leading edge and some of the dimple work required.

NOTES

Overall I am very happy how the flaps turned out, though I wish I was able to prep the skins using  Bonderite but this will be long forgotten once the parts are painted.

Some builder have had oil canning on the skins, and I had some instances where this started showing up. Removing Cleco's and repositioning the skins and a lot of patience helps.

If the holes did not line up, it was more likely that I am doing something wrong, these parts should in nearly all cases lineup with minimal adjustment.

If you are match drilling every hole your doing something wrong!!